Sant Jordi, April 23rd

Which this year fell right in the middle of Easter Holiday too. So, a lot going on in the big city, between the parents buying palmas and palmons for kids and godfathers trying to find the right “Mona de Pascua” (traditional chocolate elaboration in many shapes and sizes) for their godchild, which is shared on Easter Monday, and the book fairs with authors signing everywhere, and the many roses being sold, real roses, or  greener versions made of recycled paper or other, and the dragons of all sizes too.

I have yet never understood the calender for Easter, Quaresme and such, but I do enjoy the “bunyols de quaresme”, and I guess it’s a good thing that they are only made for this occasion; otherwise I would have to battle more yummy treats going into my mouth.

There are many versions of St George all over Europe, however no one celebrates it quite like the Catalan people do; even if it’s not an “official holiday”. Y’all know the story more or less, a legend that varies slightly, in our version, it was a Roman soldier that was told by God Almighty to go help these people of a small town, who were sacrificing young girls by lotery to a hungry dragon. It came to the King’s daughter’s turn, and while many offered to take her place, her father would not allow it; so off she went to meet her end. But Sant Jordi (catalan for St George) intervened, saved the Princess, and from the dragon’s blood a rose bush emerged, and he took a rose and gave it to her. The King offered his daughter’s hand in gratitude, but he declined as he stated that God asked him to do it.

The news travelled to the Roman Emperor, who had him killed for acting in God’s name. Sant Jordi died April 23, 303.

Book sculpture

Back in 1930, the International Book Fair, which honors the death of Miguel de Cervantes (Don Quijote) in Barcelona, has continued it’s tradition coincidentally on the day of Sant Jordi, so it became custom for every man to offer a rose to a woman, be it wife, mother, daughter, friend, etc; while the women would present a man with a book, again it could be husband, son, father, teacher, etc.

Now if you have had the privelege of being escorted by my uncle Victor, the most unusual of tour guides, you already know not to miss the chance; not only does he know and love this city, but he will inform you of the most random and offbeat information, that not even the local professional tour guides have ever heard of. So needless to say, when he asked us to go for a walk on Saturday morning, it was a treat.

crema catalana

Boqueria organic stand

Granja Pallares 1947

We went right to the heart of the city, Barri Gotic, Ramblas and the Boqueria. The crowds were huge, we all walked like penguins, travelling at old pc speed. Usually Jordi and myself would have fainted, simply at the thought of this, but remember this was a special occassion, and Victor wanted to treat us to a very special breakfast, even if it was noon by the time we reached the Granja at carrer Petrixol, his favorite spot, which was also my grandfather’s favorite spot. Although Victor says, because of cholesterol, he only comes here once a year, I think he may sneak another in, maybe in the fall. Victor and I ordered a “suis amb xurros” (the swiss is the hot thick chocolate with natural whip cream) while Jordi had a crema catana amb ensaimada (crema catalana was later interpreted by the french as creme brulee, and the ensaimada is a traditional pastry from the island of Mallorca.

Cod fish stand

Pernils (Ham stand)

The Boqueria is one of many fresh food markets the city has to offer, but it’s location, right in the middle of the Ramblas makes it a primary tourist attraction. Now, you wouldn;t think of a food market to be a big deal, until you actually see it. You can find local and exotic foods, the colors and smells are unique, and the sides of it are surrounded with bars offering tapas and all kinds of fabulous edibles. So here are a bunch of pics, remember to double click if you want to enlarge.

Arengades (Salted Sardines)

Veggies

We made it on time, 3pm for lunch, which Mari had prepared for us. Jordi did not like mussles when he arrived, but between Mari and Pol (Esther and Sol’s father) he has changed his mind, he ate more mussles than anyone else at the table.

anticipation

It takes a good hour to reach the Camp Nou from Victor and Mari’s place, and we made it just in time to meet up with Sol and Esther; this was not something you want to be late for. Jordi had been looking forward to this way before he got here, even if the game was against Osasuna. Esther and myself found a bar to watch the game directly across from the entrance that Sol and Jordi took. We realized after a goal was made, that the broadcast was 2 seconds delayed, as we heard the goal before we actually saw it.

Sol and Jordi @ Camp Nou

Jordi was beside himself before, during and after the game; not only did he go to Camp Nou, and watch FCBarcelona win the match, but he got to do all this in company of a beautiful girl. A perfect end to a perfect day.